Tadcaster to York via The Ainsty 02/10/16

15.7 miles, via The Viaduct, Bolton Percy, Nun Appleton park (sorta), Appleton Roebuck,
 Acaster Malbis, Bishopthorpe, Middlethorpe Hall & Knavesmire Park.

Five walking weekends are on the slate this October, so it makes sense to start picking the best available days to wander, meaning the glumness of Saturday is put aside for the autumnal sunshine of Sunday, with all the associated risks of sore legs once the working week comes around after no days of rest, but as it stands, getting out to Tadcaster involves exactly the same timekeeping regardless of which weekend day you choose. So off the bus by John Smith's brewery at 9.55am to be delighted that the morning sunlight has finally come to the town on the occasion of my last visit for the year, the warm glow of the yellow stone being a delightful contrast that it shows on a cloudy day, and a brisk circuit of the town is necessary before we set course for the Ainsty. We start by heading up St Joseph's Road, home to the Roman Catholic church, and to Station Road and the A659 to enjoy the older side of the town, marvelling too at the Tower brewery before joining the railway path to the viaduct, a permissive walk established in 1980 and a shady boulevard clearly enjoyed by the locals this morning. The history of the line is hilarious of course, built by the Y&NMR in 1848 to spoil the expansion plans of rivals but never forming an alternative route between Leeds and York, resulting in one of the most elaborate head-shunts ever built, operational until 1959 serving a local mill, amazingly, and now the 11 arched viaduct across the Wharfe has only 4 years to go before a PROW will be established across it. It seems there are plans afoot to revive the path out to Wighill Road too, but we'll have to walk between back gardens and the riverside meadows to make our way to the council flats by the York Road, a circuit well worth doing before the real meat of the day comes on, leaving Tadcaster via Oxton Lane, among the north bank's attractive council houses and retracing steps from last weekend over the A64. A fresh route is in order for these parts is needed, soon found down Ouston Lane, leading out to the sewage farm, a popular track for dog walkers, leading on to a rough field track that hangs not too far above the Wharfe, so the trees of Grimston Park immediately look familiar off to the south bank, as does the loop of the river as it bows its way past Ouston farm, another of those farms that seems to have no house attached to it.

Walk the field boundary beyond, gradually pushing us away from river, not feeling too lost as Oxton is visible across the fields to the north, though the low sun ahead of us is rather annoying, and it's probably going to be there for a while, as we meet the road heading eastwards towards Bolton Percy. There's a lot of road to go along too, as well as more traffic than you'd like on a Sunday morning, and progress along the way is measured by noting the features as they pass, Hornington Grange is a farm of many vintages with its own tennis court these days, Hornington Manor is a wedding venue these days, and Hornington bridge takes us over the beck last seen near Lowmoor farm, and all those names are suggestive of a village now lost to time, not to be seen on the map. Soon approach the railway, where the overbridge seems newish and ridiculously high, but it does provide a view down to the site of Bolton Percy station, where the NER styling seems to have extended to all the buildings, even the neighbouring farm, and its loss has taken away a useful starting point for touring the Ainsty from the Leeds - York line. Roll around to Bolton Percy village, around the cricket field and avoiding the cyclists to find half a charming Ainsty village clustered around the over-sized All Saints church and the village green, a spot I'd definitely like to linger, but the newer half around Old Road is as blandly suburban can be, and if you'd want to live this far from conventional towns, surely you ought to want to live in something that feels a bit more rural? Anyway, all interest is this quarter is directed towards the Nun Appleton estate, hidden away down Oak Avenue, which leads us over the ECML and down the avenue of trees that were planted as a powerful Royalist statement in the wake of the English Civil War, entering the estate proper at Oak Lodge. Fortunately I'd read up on accessibility before I came this way, so I knew that this estate is one of the saddest cases in the country, but the aggressive fencing off and planting of hawthorns to keep walkers on the bridleway is just absurd, understandable if Nun Appleton house, family seat of the Lords and Generals Fairfax, was in use, but the whole estate is in a state of decay in private hands, when it ought to be a resource to attract interest to the Ainsty, rather than its worst shame. So no sights down the lanes to the 17th century house, immortalised in poetry by Andrew Marvell, or even across the parklands,  just profound disappointment felt that such an estate could degenerate so badly, departing to the northern access road by Red Lodge, and even that appears to be unoccupied and unloved.

Head north, keeping looking back in the hope that there might be just one vista through the trees to Nun Appleton hall, but focus eventually shifts northwards as Dam Lane takes us on to Appleton Roebuck, the largest village in this remote corner of the Ainsty and first impressions are not favourable judging by the plastic porticos attached to the suburban growth at the bottom edge of the village, and I fear another village ruined by upscale development. Such fears are unfounded though, as the true face of the village as Main Street reveals one of the best frontages of anywhere in this quarter, looking especially good as the sunlight falls upon it, unspoilt might be the best word for, easy to admire and easy to love too, that look of rough red brick and white windows has really worked its way into my affections. Pass the pub, the Roebuck and pause by All Saints church, oddly Victorian when every other one in the Ainsty is Norman, but is still in the common single cell style, and I take lunch under the shade of trees, pondering the wisdom of visiting the hamlet of Acaster Selby before deciding that such a venture would add too many miles onto a Sunday walk, and continuing on north. Meeting the village green gives the feeling of meeting a whole other settlement, or at least an annexe to the main one, as it has its own pub, the Shoulder of Mutton and the most 1970s garage I have met just about anywhere, but Appleton Roebuck must be left behind, and the twists of Broad Lane can lead us back into the fields. Traffic needs to be avoided in these flatlands, and bird spotting offers more interest along the way than what is in the actual landscape, farmsteads and woodlands to the west and an airfield and piggery off to the east, and the walking pace gets the hammer down on the way past Beechlands farm and on to find the turn to Intake Lane. In this deepest corner of the Ainsty, the local caravan site seems to have grown into a retirement village, and the idea of dwelling through my dotage in this remote part of the county, at risk of flooding from the Ouse, in a semi permanent caravan, is one of those ideas that strikes me as faintly horrifying, and that's an idea I'll carry on as we drift towards the riverside, and the village of Acaster Malbis. Southmoor House stands tall at its southern end and the rest of the houses seem worryingly low rise at such close proximity to the river, another place where suburban sprawl has reached which has resulted in a frustrating lack of character for a village with such a singular name.

Pass the village hall and pinfold, which I have seen so many of this year, and join Hauling Lane to head back to the riveride, where the Ship Inn and a few cottages offer a rustic flavour among the many caravans, but the Ouse won't be a feature on today's trip as we favour the road to go north, to pass Holy Trinity church, far removed from the village and largely concealed by a clump of trees. Press on along the road as the day hits a gloomy spell, starting to think of the appeal of the riverside path and taking a look towards Naburn, but soon we see Naburn swing bridge, and pass under the old Selby - York line at Acaster Bridge bringing us up to the edge of Bishopthorpe, and the whole front along Acaster Lane is a picture of 1980's suburbia and you know how I feel about that. The Main Street of Bishopthorpe is a gem, of course, and we retrace steps past the Archbishop of York's residence and St Andrew's church to get a better feeling about the village before following the road on past York Crematorium and over the A64, where one of the best perspectives over York Racecourse can be gained. Before we get there, we can get our dose of a Big House in the Country, as we pass Middlethorpe Hall, a very excellent late 17th century build in brick, these days at the centre of a Hotel and Spa complex that seems to have absorbed all of the hamlet of Middlethorpe, something to enjoy before pushing on along Bishopthorpe road past the law school and the allotments. Meet the TPT link, by the former Terry's factory and walk on towards the Racecourse, favouring the high path around the back of the stands and pavilions, a pretty enormous accumulation when seen up close, and playing host to a charity dogwalk today, it seems. I will go to the Races, one day, but for know we'll just enjoy the sun coming on to warm us as the path is made along Knavesmire Road as it cuts its way across the heart of the park, a thoroughly pleasant spot to see the ticker pass 2,500 miles, half way to 5,000 before I'm 50 already. Land in York proper once we meet Tadcaster Road, and the A1036 will lead us into the city on its surprisingly undulating course among the many hotels on its way to Micklegate Bar, which will be entered this time around, mostly so I can take a closer look at the old NER station - contemporary Council offices by walking down Tanner Row and Station Rise. Naturally I discover the best views are actually from further away, but it and the old NER offices - contemporary Grand Hotel are always worth a look, especially on warm Autumn day like this, and the trail can soon conclude at the active railway station soon enough, on the platform at 3.40pm, way ahead of schedule once again.

5,000 Miles Cumulative Total: 2501.2 miles
2016 Total: 486.8 miles
Up Country Total: 2285.7 miles
Solo Total: 2270.3 miles

Tower Brewery, Tadcaster, the one that isn't a Smith's.

Tadcaster Viaduct, the Y&NMR's permantent way to nowhere.

Oxton Road, Tadcaster, finally taking us away from the town.

The bowing Wharfe, near Ouston farm.

The lost village of Hornington? Maybe?

All Saints, Bolton Percy, pride of the Ainsty.

Oak Avenue and Oak Lodge, Nun Appleton.

Red Lodge, Nun Appleton, trespassers are NOT welcome.

Methodist Chapel, Appleton Roebuck, another proud Ainsty Village.

The Village Green, Appleton Roebuck. I think I like this village.

 

Broad lane for challenging (!) walking in the Ainsty.

Southmoor House, Ascaster Malbis. A rare tall house in this quarter.

 

The Ship Inn, Acaster Selby, on the Ouse riverfront.

Acaster Bridge, on the former Selby - York line
(located between Saturn and Jupiter).

Bishopthorpe Palace gatehouse.

Middlethorpe Hall, finally a country house to see up close!

The Main Grandstand, York Racecourse, surely a visit is due?

Knavesmire Road, and half way to 5,000 miles too!

York Old NER Station 1841 -77.
York Council Offices 2013 - Present.

Next Up: One last city trail in Leeds? Nah, need rest and a Plan B.
                So, One last Ainsty trail to York, hopefully featuring the elusive River Nidd!